Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Larger Than Life

So it would appear that this week I have altered my training schedule just a little. I managed to sneak out in between thunderstorms and do a bit of climbing at the Glen with a friend Jonas. Not sure if this was wise but, I really enjoyed it! Despite the wet humid conditions, we had fun and hopefully it helped maintain a bit of route fitness. I have been obsessed with my fingerboard sessions lately, so much to the point I have been waking up in the middle of the night with aching fingers. So I thought that laying off the training for a week wouldn't hurt. I have been having an early morning boulder for a couple of hours than hitting the crag after 4pm. I tried a route called Larger than Life(31) and Jonas nailed Brutal and Wrong Movements(27) quite quickly, so the pressure was on for me to send this route. Larger than Life is an incredible line, I remember almost 3 years ago when I first visited the glen, standing underneath this route in amazement. It basically climbs a 40 metre traverse and finishes out 2 roofs. This style of climbing is pretty rare in the mountains, the only accept ion being the Amphitheatre at Diamond Falls. The first 2 days I tried the route, a lot of the important holds were quite damp and some were even wet. Fortunately when I returned on the third day(i'm not quite sure how) the holds were slightly better, making it sendable. Even though the final jug is a monstrous hoofer, I nearly came off clipping the anchor due to the huge amount of rope drag and the rock was slick and damp. Luckily I held on! Such an awesome route, just remember to pack long slings and roller biners(unlike me):-)