So yeah, I decided that this 6 weeks would be a bit a bit of a test and ultimately decide weather I was going to actually bite the bullet and move to the mountains permanantley, considering the amount of petrol I actually saved, it meant that I could comfortably drop a shift at the gym and still come out on top at the end of the week!Not a very wealthy chap, but awesome lifestyle......climb,climb and climb.
I think the statistics were like 5 out of the 7 weeks were pissing precipitaion and one of the weeks was actually like climbing on a summers day......rank, cant win.
I climbed alot with a friend Evan, and although the condtions weren't always great we made the most of what we had. Without a doubt we spent most of our time at Wave Wall.......(the place I hate to love) and ticked off a couple of the classics that I have wanted to do for a while. Bleeding from both hands, I sent a route called Staring at the Sea(31), after working the moves it only took me 3 attempts to redpoint. I was pretty stoked, over the past 2 years I have seen numerous strong climbers get punished on this route, hence why it has taken me so long to try it. In saying this, I think the conditions were imacculate on this particular day and I think that every route on Wave is totally conditions dependent! A few days later I climbed Birthday Salmon(30) 2nd shot, pretty much a harder start to Tsunami(29) the start move felt hard at the time but in reality once it is dialled it is maybe easier than the Tsunami start, just a bit more intense on the skin and you have to bone down a bit harder.
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| yep ahh yep um yeah, this wasn't the aftermath of Staring but is probably a slightly milder version. (unfortunately I forgot to snap a shot after) |
Along with all of the shitty weather we had at least one good "Teaser'' week. Blue skies light wind, 17 degrees yeah rad.....it was even too hot in the sun! I think Teaser should be a Blue Mountains weather term. For every 8 weeks of bad weather there is at least one good one where I go WOW how good is this! im gunna send this route tomorrow! and then it is pisses down for another 5 weeks. Anyway back to my story, spent this particular week with Zac and Jarmila at Diamond Falls. Now I had a couple of goes on Tuckered Out(30) and a slight wardrobe malfunction killed my redpoint attempt on that one, my shoe somehow slid off my heel doing the last moves through the roof..........yeah I had excessively sweaty feet that day. Anyway not to worry, climbed a route called Super Duper Goo(29) and got to work on a route Tucker Time(33) which to my suprise felt doable for me, just need some time and good weather and maybe a few intense hangboard sessions. Zacs Beta also was a big help.
I think we spent a day at Bowens creek the following week which perhaps was a rookie error on my behalf. Red raw finger tips after 6 routes and I couldn't climb anything for the week.......i really enjoyed the routes out here but my skin just can't cope. I onsighted a lot of 26's and flashed Lloyd(27). I also tried Full Cream(30) a really Inspiring line which cranks through the centre of the Main Wall, pulls a rad boulder through the roof and has a couple of gnarley moves on the headwall. Im sad I didnt spend more time on the route, I had two shots at the crux and split a tip, spat the dummy and stripped the draws.
I spent the rest of that week training, drinking far too much coffee and trying to play guitar. Which turned out good because the weather was shit anyhow. I had to lay off my coffee consumption because I was getting bad chest pains. Its a trap because what else do you do when you can't climb and your in Blackheath? Finally I grew some skin and went back to the ole Wave Wall and after a few sessions with Kristine and Evan I ticked a climb called Tugboat(31). Now, this route I thought was really awesome and has a cool crux move before truckin through the roof to finish at the Tsunami anchors. The route was given(32) originally by a few ascentionists and im not sure what to think. To me it definately felt harder that Staring at the sea but didn't feel at the same level as other 32s. Id say probly 31.
So that pretty much among a few other things wrapped up my 6 weeks in the mountains, hopefully spring has some better weather in store for us!
Since then I have done very little climbing, a crazy gastro bug had me in bed for the best part of five days! yep it's difficult to train when a toilet needs to be within a 2 metre radius at all times!
So all of this week has been spent training to get back to the level I was at two weeks ago .........
thank yall for reading my blog
