Wow! it has been a month since my last post! I do apologise for being a bit slack with updating my page....I have been quite busy climbing and working. Quite an eventful month, so I will do my best to recall it as it happened. Its been a bit of a slap in the face the past few weeks, trying to adapt to climbing in Nowra has been harder than I thought....for the past three months I have been climbing long pumpy routes in the mountains and have been quite successful, this suits my style and is where I feel most comfortable. Unfortunately from time to time we have to throw ourselves outside of our comfort zone to progress in other areas,( in my case becoming a better rockclimber). Nowra Generally has far shorter routes that require alot more power and boulder strength. Perfect!! I have great indurance at the moment but my Power levels are somewhat comparable to a kitten :-p....Anyway back on track, I climbed a route called Cheese Dairy Monster(31/8b) at Cheesedale, this is quite the pumper so it did not take me too long to redpoint. The route links the hardest parts of two 30's together and produces a stella line on brilliant rock. A short while after I sent Pete tosens classic Metamorphis(29/8a) this is really cool rock climbing, two rad boulder problems separated by jugs.(the route was originally graded 30, not sure could still be).
I decided to kickstart my power levels with a good boulder day with the Villawood crew. We headed to the Wing cave at Sutherland and I got the guided tour from Scotty and Sean. After a slow start I managed to climb various problems ranging from V5 through to V10. this was a bit of a confidence booster considering I have not bouldered outdoors in 4 months.
I got psyched and decided it was time to head back to Attack Mode(32) at PC, as I mentioned previously I had done the moves and was feeling confident I could send or at least get good linkage on this unreal little piece of sandstone. To my suprise I got shutdown again and again and again! I could not even do moves I had worked out and done two weeks earlier...WTF! dunno perhaps I was tired or something, shut down!
In the meantime Carlie and Sean both ticked their first 30 Cheesemonster! Awesome!
Pete and I both spent a bit of time at South Central, Pete had a feel of Scum(Classic Nowra 25 often considered desperate!). I tried Physical Graffiti(31), awesome piece of Power indurance came very close but no Cigar on that day anyway :-(. I'll be back!
The weather was unreal In the mountains, so I decided to hit up Diamond Falls again! Even though I swore I would not return after a string of bad weather gave me the shits. Pretty Inspiring on a nice day! Monique sent Tuckered out (30) first aussie mum to climb grade 30, This was really cool to watch. A sandstone crusher by the name of Lawry Dermody was trying Fantastic Mr Fox(33) and coming very close too. Pete tried Hairline(28) and later on in the week I sent Lightyears(31/8b) in the Ampitheatre, not to mention it was bloody freezing, kinda difficult when you can't feel your fingeys. I think that covers the majority of the month anyway....
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Scotty cranking on the Groove Terminator V11 Wing Cave |
Thanks guys Norry